Ohio Valley-style pizza makes for a strange yet satisfying bite
K(ate)’s Takes is a food column that explores and reviews dining spots in the Columbus area.
DiCarlo’s Pizza is not your average pizza joint.
Located at 91 E. 5th Ave., and known for creating “Ohio Valley-style pizza” — famously baked only with dough and sauce while cheese and additional toppings are added on cold after cooking — DiCarlo’s may deter some customers due to its unusual pizza baking process. However, I was pleasantly surprised by how much I enjoyed its bizarre take on a college-kid comfort meal.
I opted for the “Box” ($9.30), which comes with six sizable square pieces of pizza, topped with cheese and one free topping. Despite greatly enjoying the thin, crispy and buttery crust — easily the best part of the pie — my first complaint is in regard to the extra topping prices.
When I order pizza, I expect an array of topping options, from pepperoni and peppers to meat lovers to deluxe. Here, the expensive topping menu meant I was only able to indulge in one flavor profile in an effort to not break the bank.
For example, despite my love for banana peppers, I sacrificed their presence on my pizza due to the additional $2.70 on an already pricey pie. To justify spending $12 on only six slices and two toppings was not in the cards for me, and I would venture to say many other pizza lovers would feel similarly.
Despite this disappointment, the pizza’s substantial helping of sauce and limited sprinkling of cheese was a welcome surprise, as it is a modification I often ask for at other pizza shops. Due to the request’s unusual nature, however, it’s typically disregarded and I am left with a much-too-cheesy dining experience.
Although I realize this sauce-to-cheese ratio may not be for everyone — serving as a definite disappointment to cheese lovers — it made my first DiCarlo’s experience a worthwhile one.
My most pressing question when ordering DiCarlo’s was whether or not the cold toppings would ruin the pizza. Though I can easily say they weren’t my favorite temperature or texture — for example, the pepperoni was slimy and not at all crispy — I was still able to moderately enjoy the pizza. I would, however, chalk this slight satisfaction up to the crust and sauce, as they are the pizza’s saving grace.
I couldn’t complete my order without trying the “Pepperoni Roll” ($4.50), which can best be compared to a classic calzone. Here, I was finally pleased with the amount of food for the price.
Still, anything beyond one free topping was unsurprisingly an additional charge. Unable to combat my banana pepper craving, I caved and spent the extra $2 — and I would do it again.
Thanks to the pepperoni roll’s impressive size — much larger than pictured on the website — I could easily justify the price increase for what I received. The amount of cheese was once again lacking, which is something I personally relished. Paired with a cup of subtly sweet yet spicy sauce, the pepperoni roll was a delicious bite I would consider ordering again.
Overall, those looking to indulge in an unconventional take on a late-night classic may find what they’re looking for at DiCarlo’s Pizza. Though I don’t see myself fiending for it anytime soon, I appreciated the unique take and can understand why the pizzeria is, for some, an Ohio staple.
Rating: 3.5/5